Cambodia

The Water Festival, or "Bon Om Teuk" in Khmer, is one of the largest festivals in Southeast Asia. It marks the end of the rainy season and the reversal of the flow of the Tonlé Sap River. This phenomenon of alternating river flow is extremely rare in the world. From May to October, the water flows from its source, Tonlé Sap Lake—the largest in Southeast Asia—towards the Mekong at its confluence in Phnom Penh, flowing from north to south. From the end of October, however, the Mekong, which is normally filled by the monsoons, overflows into the Tonlé Sap, causing the river to reverse and flow back to its source for the next six months.

This shift in the river’s current is celebrated in style in Phnom Penh during the three days of the Water Festival. The capital is flooded with visitors, and the festivities are plentiful.

A submerged capital

As the Water Festival approaches, the excitement can be felt on the streets of Phnom Penh several days before the official start. The city's paved roads are overtaken by minibuses arriving from all provinces of the country. Indeed, for once during the year, it’s not the city dwellers heading to the countryside to visit family, but quite the opposite. Families from the provinces organize to flock to Phnom Penh for the three-day festival. Many expatriates, particularly Westerners, choose to leave the capital to avoid the tourist crowds. Numerous streets are blocked off by barriers, especially near the Independence Monument, the Royal Palace, and the National Museum.

Sisowath Quay, or Riverside, the promenade along the Tonlé Sap River, is completely free of traffic, making the atmosphere pedestrian-friendly and secure. Much like carnival celebrations, only pedestrians—dressed in costumes and carrying flags of various colors—take over this major street in Phnom Penh.

The best way to take in the spectacle is to gain some elevation. The ideal option is to book a table at one of the rooftop bars or terraces at the top of buildings along this temporarily pedestrianized street. From above, you can stay as long as you wish at a fantastic spot, at a very reasonable price, to watch the festivities unfold below, but also to witness the highlight of the Water Festival…

The Great National Dragon boat race

As thousands of Khmers gather in the capital to celebrate the end of the monsoon season and the reversal of the Tonlé Sap River, they also come to support their respective provinces. For three days, under the watchful eyes of King Norodom Sihamoni, Queen Mother Norodom Monineath, Prime Minister Hun Sen, and the Cambodian elite, each of the country’s 20 provinces competes in the dragon boat races held during the Water Festival. In total, over 400 boats, with teams of 50, 70, or even 100 rowers, race in the various regattas.

These races take place in the heart of the Tonlé Sap River, between the confluence with the Mekong and the Chroy Changvar Bridge. They attract the entire nation, whether in person or on television. All Cambodian media cover the event, making it the biggest sporting event of the year on Khmer soil.

Each race is of immense importance for the pride of the residents of each province. For example, one of our interviews with the rower Kosal, who competed for the province of Steung Treng, gives a closer look at the significance of this event. The Water Festival is also a wonderful occasion for these rowers, as well as the provincial supporters and families from the countryside, to enjoy a stay in the capital, Phnom Penh—something that is not always easy for some. It’s a true breath of fresh air and sunshine after the rainy season.