On the trails of Bénin and Togo

Our first ethno-epic adventure will take place in the traditional village of Ganvié. It is nicknamed the "Venice of Africa" because it is located directly in the middle of Lake Nokoué.

Its stilt houses, its floating market where foodstuffs abound (vegetables, fruits, fish) and its atypical shops captivate with the charm of this picturesque fishing village. Visitors appreciate the peaceful life on the water and the hospitality of the Toffins (or Toffinous, meaning "the men of the water"). This is the ethnic community inhabiting the area. They migrated to Ganvié to escape the ravages of slavery and attacks from the kingdom of Dahomey in Togo in the 18th century.

It is said that the king of old, Agbogdobé, transformed himself into a hawk to fly over Nokoué. Thus, he was able to spot a lake island capable of welcoming his people. Then he took the form of a crocodile to lead them to this promised land. The region was named Ganvié which means "we are saved". Quickly, these nomads adapted to this aquatic life through the exploitation of water hyacinths and their brilliant fishing techniques (Akadja).

The best thing to do in this locality is undoubtedly to wander peacefully between the bamboo buildings topped with a thatched roof while observing the daily activities of the inhabitants.

We head towards Bénin's capital and the administrative center of The Oueme Department: Porto. This administrative city is characterized by the architecture of its buildings, a style that earned it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. But this city is also well known for its places of worship dedicated to the Orisha gods of the Yoruba religion.

We visit an old colonial building serving as an ethnographic museum. You'll find curious collections of masks Guelede Identity Celebration, musical instruments, and tribal weapons.

Then we pass by its The Great Mosque of Porto. Though dilapidated, it possesses an outdated charm through its architecture and walls with rich, warm colors. It displays a style close to that of the Christian churches of Salvador da Bahia in Brazil.

We end our discovery of the city of Porto after a hearty breakfast.

We take time to admire the beauty of this city with many faces: monuments and vestiges dating from the period of trade between Africa, America and Europe; museums (Honmé, Da Silva, Alexandre Sènou Adandé); etc.

Once our visits are complete, we head towards Pobé.

Our itinerary then passes through Onigbolo with its cement factory and through the Agolin region. A journey enhanced by the discovery of various rural markets and the ethnic village of the holi with their different tattoos.

Arrival in Covè and hotel check-in.

Refreshed by a good breakfast, we set out to meet the people of Agonlin. We discover their way of life based on an ancestral code. These people also live from subsistence agriculture, hunting and the worship of ancestors.

We then take the track towards Gbaname. On the road, we stop at a Wodaabe camp. These nomads come from Nigeria and are distinguished by their Gérewol festival and their seduction competition. We take the time to exchange a few words with them. This lifestyle steeped in simplicity is a change from the modern life of the West.

After the Peul fulani village of Gossoué, we head towards the city of Dassa. Impressive rocky hills surround the city, forming a natural amphitheater of great beauty.

Also called the city of 41 hills, Dassa-Zoumé is a crossroads city. Our explorations begin with a visit to the Arigbo Marian center, a place of prayer and meditation.

Hiking on The Hills of Dassa to see the path of rituals followed by the Omondjagou, the majority ethnic group that formed the former kingdom of Dassa-Zoumé. On the hills, we have the opportunity to see the fetishes and representations of voodoo worship.

About forty kilometers northwest of Dassa, we cross the locality of Savalou. The beauty of this region is stunning. You will find magnificent cashew trees and teak plantations.

It is also here that the Mahi people are found, the tribe that rose up to resist the Dahomean kingdom between the 17th and 18th centuries.

From Savalou we join the chivalrous city of Djougou, located just over 200 km to the north.

We set out to visit the Tanéka-Koko region, inhabited by animist hunters who live from millet cultivation. In the Yaka camping site lives an animist ethnic group isolated from the region's wave of Islamization. They undergo spectacular male circumcision initiation rites. We speak with sorcerers who are guardians of tradition to experience and draw closer to their culture based on the cult of the dead.

Night in a guesthouse in Djougou.

We continue our journey towards Natitingou.

Upon arrival, we visit the popular museum then the city market. You also have the option to take a swim in the natural pool of the Chutes de Kota.

Overnight stay in a hotel located in the heart of the city.

After our breakfast we take the long road south towards Abomey, capital of the former Dahomey kingdom.

The city, founded in the 16th century, houses the royal palaces of former kings as well as the museum which preserves the old royal objects, ornaments and treasures of the former kingdom. The sites were abandoned following the defeat of King Behanzin by French colonists. Later, these castles were renovated by Unesco and became historical museums.

After this enriching getaway, we rest at our guesthouse.

We head due west and cross the Togolese border today towards Atakpamé. This town, perched on a hill, marks the boundary of the Togolese coffee and cocoa triangle with its sister towns Badou to the west and Kpalimé to the southwest.

Once a mountain refuge and then an agricultural and administrative center under German rule, it is home to one of the country's most famous traditional dances, the Tchébé dance on stilts, which we may have the pleasure of witnessing.

A short distance from the town, at the Nangbéto Dam, hippopotamuses frolic about, which we have the pleasure of admiring.

In town, around the central square, the market already bustling during the day changes atmosphere again at nightfall with music that enlivens both buyers and sellers.

We continue our descent towards southern Togo and arrive in the lovely town of Kpalimé, not far from the Ghanaian border.

Coffee and cocoa plantations, wooded hills, waterfalls, valleys and forests form an enchanting green natural setting.

Kpalimé is also renowned for its artists and craftspeople: wood carving, batik, pottery, weaving, calabash making, … are very lively activities here.

Once there, we will stretch our legs, get some fresh air and especially cool off in the lovely Wome Waterfalls. A short forest walk and we find ourselves at the edge of a deep, cool pool perfect for swimming!

We return to town for a must-see in the area: the Kpalimé market, very lively and colorful.

The end of the day is devoted to a trip to Mont Agou, Togo's highest point. Through avocado trees, banana trees and other orchards, we climb without great difficulty on the slopes of the mountain, where several small villages are scattered. The peak of Agou offers a magnificent panoramic view over the region.

We resume our journey this morning through the forest region and arrive in Lomé, the vibrant and bustling capital of the country, located on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

Without further ado we launch into exploring the city, starting with its largest market, the Assiganmé market. We discover there the famous Nana Benz, these women sellers of Dutch fabrics who embodied in the recent past a certain class of wealthy women.

For an immersion into the heart of Togolese beliefs and traditions, nothing beats the fetish market which never fails to surprise with its amazing array of traditional pharmacopoeia.

Among the city's main attractions, our wanderings also lead us to Liberty Square and Independence Square.

Heading to Togoville, a village located on the banks of the country's largest lake, Lake Togo. An opportunity for a pleasant pirogue ride. Togoville is also renowned for its vibrant traditions, as evidenced by the many fetishes and wooden sculptures in front of the houses.

Historical and cultural afternoon in Agbodranfo to discover the history of slavery which particularly marked the region. The slave house and the well of the chained are two must-see stops on our moving visit.

Night in Aneho, not far from the Benin border.

Returning to Bénin, we cross the border at Sanvée-Condji and head towards Grand, a coastal town and a paradise for sea and nature lovers.

This small town invites relaxation and contemplation. Located at the mouth of the Fleuve Mono, it is a very popular holiday destination with locals. The nature around is simply magical: with its fine sandy beaches and its coconut trees, its crystal-clear lagoon, its birds and its mangroves.

Visitors enjoy walks on foot and canoe trips, and a visit to the mouth of the Mono river known as the "Mouth of the King".

Completely refreshed, we leave the enchanting Grand-Popo to head towards Possotomé.

This peaceful town on the shores of Lake Ahémé is appealing for its fishing activities, its thermal spring waters, its small beaches lined with coconut trees, its pirogue rides and its opportunities for lake swimming.

That said, this locality goes far beyond wandering in the company of Mother Nature. It is also a haven of life where voodoo traditions dominate. We can see voodoo temples, ceremonies and sacred forests.

Night in a guesthouse on the lakeside.

After these two days of exoticism, we head to Ouidah. This large city was built by the Houéda people, great devotees of the python scarification (voodoo ritual). It is full of historical sites, remnants of a dark period in its past.

It indeed played a key role during the slave trade to South America, particularly to Brazil. The The Slave Route remains one of the major vestiges of this era. This trail is done in six stages: from Chacha Square to the Gate of No Return.

Following a lengthy overview of this terrible path, we clear our minds with a visit to the historic center of the city. You can see a multitude of colonial houses inspired by English, Portuguese and French architecture. Then, we add to our itinerary the exploration of the old Portuguese fort which is now a historical museum.

For this last day, we have free time in the economic city of Cotonou.

We take this opportunity to experience the fine reputation of its open-air market: Dantokpa. If we have time, we will also visit the Missebo market, the Zinsou foundation, Fidjrosse beach, and the craft center.

Transfer to the airport for our return flight.