Crossing the Royal Cordillera

We depart in the morning towards Lake Titicaca and the north of the La Cordillère Royale, then we descend to the village of Sorata, nestled at the bottom of a lush valley at the foot of the Illampu and Ancohuma massifs.

Free afternoon in the magnificent tree-lined park of the Ecolodge Altai Oasis.

We start our trek from Sorata along a well-marked trail that climbs, to the south-east, through hamlets and cultivated areas. Gradually the majestic massif of the Illampu reveals itself more and more and would almost make us forget the significant elevation gain of the day. Almost! 1525 m higher up, here is the Laguna Chilata, nestled on a small plateau overlooking the Sorata valley. Bivouac on the shores of the lake.

Departure: 8:00 AM
Walking time: 6 to 7 hours
Elevation gain: +1525m

We take a trail that climbs toward the southeast, crosses a gap at 4400 m altitude, then runs along a contour line on the western slope of the Illampu and Ancohuma massifs. We continue with a steep climb through rocks to reach the Laguna Glaciar (5045 m) where a huge glacial tongue comes to drown. The main peak of Illampu, a monster of ice, dominates a rocky ridge that is both splendid and frightening. After the lake, we descend off-trail through rocky chaos toward the southwest to Venado camp.

Departure: 8:00 AM
Walking time: 6 to 7 hours
Elevation gain: +900m/-800m

Our hike starts on a balcony trail along the mountainside heading south to a pass at 4350 m altitude. This pass overlooks a wide valley where the mina Susana (4030 m) is located, a network of silver and tin mines. We continue with a descent on a track that offers views of the galleries carved by miners into the mountain. Before descending to the village of Millipaya (3475 m), we cross a stream to drop down, heading due south, to the other side of the valley, then we climb on a trail along the mountainside until we reach Khota Pata lake (4052 m). The trail continues south, passes by several other small lakes and leads to the location Lojena, ideal for setting up camp above the Millipaya valley.

Departure: 8:00 AM
Hiking time: 6 to 7 hours
Elevation gain: +670m/-610m

The trail continues along the mountainside with alternating climbs and descents. We can clearly observe Lake Titicaca in the distance. A final climb takes us to the Chotanlona pass (4,910 m) which opens onto the Illampu, Ancohuma and even the Chearoco massifs, not to mention the Kasiri and Calzada glaciers… We then descend eastward into the lovely valley hosting the turquoise San Francisco lake near which there are hot springs that encourage bathing. Bivouac on the shores of the lake.

Departure: 8:00 AM
Hiking time: 5 to 6 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +700m/-540m

Today's program includes crossing 2 passes that reach nearly 5000 m altitude. The route heads south-east towards Lake Ajoyan, above Lake Cacha, at around 4780 m altitude. Then it climbs north-west to the bottom of the valley where two turquoise blue lakes are located, Lake Chojña Khota (4720 m) and Carizal (4767 m), at the foot of the Calzada pass and its eponymous summit (5650 m). Camping by the lake, in one of the most beautiful "camping areas" of the Royal Cordillera!

Departure: 8:00 AM
Walking time: 6 to 7 hours
Elevation gain: +760m/-510m

For the morning, we have two possible choices: relax in the sun on the shores of the lake or visit the Calzada pass. In the latter case, we climb towards Lake Carizal then follow its right bank and continue northeast to the Calzada pass (5050 m), wedged between the Kasiri and Calzada massifs, culminating at 5857 m and 5650 m respectively. We retrace our steps to Laguna Chojña Khota.

After lunch, the afternoon objective is to reach the shores of Lake Jistaña Khota for the evening bivouac. To do this, we head south to cross a pass located at 5100 m altitude. We finish with a long descent into the valley to the edge of the lake. Throughout the route, the trail is nothing but dust and the landscape a palette of gray tones!

Departure: 10:00
Walking time: 3 to 4 hours
Elevation gain: +350m/-510m

We set off along the mountainside, heading due west, then turn south towards the small lake of Niquioyo Khota (4672 m), dominated to the east by Condor Jipina (5315 m). The balcony trail continues southeast and offers a wide panorama of the Altiplano and Lake Titicaca. We then undertake a series of climbs and descents to cross two passes, the first at 4950 m altitude, the second at 5000 m. To finish the day, we descend through steep scree to reach a valley that shelters the lovely small green lake of Chiscacalliuani.

Departure: 8:00 AM
Walking time: 7 hours
Elevation gain: +840m/-580m

Full southward departure to reach the Chacha Kumani valley (4430 m) : it is a wide marshy valley that leads to the foot of the glacier massif of the same name. After crossing the bofedals (marshy area dotted with giant water-soaked mosses), we climb this valley to the north-east, crossing several successive plateaus up to a pass located at 5000 m altitude. As we gain altitude, the view opens up onto the impressive Chachacomani glacier (6074 m). After the pass, we descend rapidly into the Pura Purani valley. We continue to the south-east along the slope to cross 3 small successive passes and reach the Rio Jayllawaya valley (4480 m).

Departure : 8:00 AM
Walking time : 7 to 8 hours
Elevation gain : +900m/-1240m

The day begins with a steep climb to the upper plateau leading to Wara Warani lake (4620 m). Then the progression becomes more gradual along the stream to the bottom of the valley, heading northeast. We cross a rocky ridge to reach the level of Wara Warani lake (4930 m). This lake is nestled at the foot of the Wara Warani glacier and is divided into two parts of different colors. The glacier drops into a small lake with turquoise waters, while the other part of the lake offers water of an intense blue. Very surprising and magical! After contemplating the beauty of the place, we must skirt the lake to the right and climb southeast towards a steep pass (5050 m) overlooking the Kunu Pampa glacier.

We descend into a rocky scree, along the glacial tongue, and arrive in an isolated valley, at around 4760 m altitude. After crossing this valley, we continue southeast, where one last obstacle presents itself: the Minchin pass (or col) (5000 m). Once the pass is crossed, we descend easily to Khotia lake (4450 m).

Departure: 8:00 AM
Walking time: 7 to 8 hours
Elevation gain: +810m/-840m

From Laguna Khotia, the route to Laguna Chiarkhota is the most well-known in the Royal Cordillera. We start the day heading due south along the mountainside. We reach the Paso Contador pass (4760 m) which offers a beautiful view over a wide valley. Here you can observe a large lake named Alka Khota at the level of the old Palcoco mine. We then descend into the valley, cross a semi-marshy area, near laguna Surakhota (4410 m) and continue in a south-east direction. We then need to climb up the mountainside before reaching laguna Ajwani ("lake of birds").

Departure: 10:00 AM
Walking time: 5 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +550m/-385m

Laguna Ajwani is a beautiful lake where many ducks live. The place is very beautiful and peaceful. We start the day by walking southeast along the mountainside. We still have beautiful views of Ajawani lake before passing into the next valley. We then reach the Milluni pass located at 4910m altitude before descending to laguna Sistaña (4670m altitude). From the pass, we can observe Huayna Potosi and its famous west face. We continue southeast. We climb a second pass, Paso Janchallani located at 4885m altitude. We finally discover the Condoriri massif, one of the most beautiful glaciers in the Cordillera. We finish this day by descending to laguna Jurikhota (4700m altitude) nestled in a steep-sided valley.

Departure: 9am
Walking time: 4 hours
Elevation gain: +530m/-445m

The Head and Left Wing of the Condor overlook the lake. We can make out the path that runs along the lagoon on the left and climbs up through the moraine to the foot of the glacier. The views are magnificent! The next day promises to be splendid!

We start this day by skirting the lake, heading north-east, along its right bank to reach the moraine. Then we climb up the moraine to the Laguna Congelada (4880 m). The place is simply splendid. The Condoriri glacier ends its course in its turquoise waters. The vertical walls of the Left Wing and the Condor's Head appear frightening to us from our path.

After a break, we then head south-east to climb through the rocks on our right towards the pass. The climb is quite steep and sometimes requires the help of hands and a lot of caution. We arrive at the Austria Pass (5140 m). If we still have some strength left, it is recommended to make a detour via the Austria Peak (5300 m) before tipping into the next valley. This is the peak that dominates the pass on our right and faces Condoriri. You must tackle a steep climb through a scree field, but the effort is really worth it. This peak is a true viewpoint over Condoriri. The views are breathtaking over the glacial massif. All that's left is to descend south-east from the pass to reach the Laguna Chiarkhota (4680 m), base camp for Condoriri and Pequeño Alpamayo.

Departure: 9:00 AM
Walking time: 5 hours
Elevation gain: +480m/-500m

We head due east along the mountainside to reach the Jallayko Pass (5025 m) at the foot of the Black Needle. As we gain altitude, the Pequeño Alapmayo glacier comes into view. On the other side of the pass, the glaciers give way to a more mineral landscape. We then descend the next valley due south and, before reaching Laguna Tuni, we gain altitude again towards the southeast, on our left, reaching paso Tillipata (5000 m). The climb to the pass offers a beautiful perspective on the various lakes below and the imposing Huayna Potosi nearby, just behind the summit of Maria Lloco. We descend to the edge of Laguna Wichu Khota to set up camp.

Departure: 8:00 a.m.
Walking time: 7 hours
Elevation gain/loss: +845m/-845m

We walk in the middle of the lagoons before reaching the old Santa Fe mine camp. Then, the road continues southeast by a passable track. To make this day a bit more enjoyable, we can climb to a small summit to enjoy a panoramic view of the different lagoons. The path then continues along the passable track to the Campo Canal camp.

There, don't miss the hike to the Laguna Glaciar of the Huayna Potosi. We can climb in the direction of the glacier, northeast, by the right side of the valley. Let's gain some altitude and reach a canal that takes us to the lake at around 4905m elevation. We are then at the foot of the west face of the Huayna Potosi, a sheer drop of 900m to the main summit. Both splendid and frightening !

Departure: 9:00 AM
Walking time: 5 to 6 hours
Elevation gain: +220m/-220m

We start our final pass climbing southeast towards the Paso Miluni (5000 m). Magnificent views of the west face of Huayna Potosi. We then go around the glacial massif to pass over its eastern side and reach the Casa Blanca refuge located at 4795 m altitude. Our journey ends here at the foot of Huayna Potosi. We can observe the normal climbing route and may feel like trying it!

Departure: 9:00 AM
Walking time: 4 hours
Elevation gain: +300m/-200m

• Our journey completed, a vehicle awaits us to return to civilization in the city of La Paz.