Cycling Through the Mountain

Today, we join the train station to board a train heading to Amritsar. Upon arrival, we are greeted by the driver and then taken to the hotel. Amritsar is the spiritual center of the Sikh religion. Etymologically, its name means "lake of sacred nectar". Late in the afternoon, we plan a guided visit to the fabulous Golden Temple. Night at the hotel.

We schedule an early morning visit to the Golden Temple before heading to Pragpur. We try to get there early in the morning, when the first light of day reflects in the surrounding pool of the golden central dome. This sight is simply magical. We take time to refresh before heading to Pragpur via the Kangra Valley. Arriving in the town in early evening, we settle into our hotel and take the moment to contemplate the fascinating landscape. The Himachal Pradesh government granted Pragpur the status of heritage village, due to its pleasantly preserved and colorful houses. The village is built around a central courtyard and pool, known as Taal.

We have breakfast at our hotel before beginning this first day of cycling. We mount our bikes for a ride out of the city Pragpur (600 m), to the bridge that crosses the Beas River. Today's ride is on quiet roads, taking us through fields, mixed forests and several villages in the Kangra Valley. The route is quite comfortable, as there are few steep climbs and descents. We reach Kangra in the afternoon. We explore the surroundings of the city and the Kangra Fort whose origins date back to the time of the Trigarta kingdom, mentioned in the Mahabharata epic. It is the largest fort in the Himalayas and probably the oldest dated fort in Inde.

We start our adventure quite early, since today's route, although fairly short, involves many climbs. To begin with, we take the road through The upper Kangra valley which proves quite easy to descend. But beyond the junction at Gaggal, a series of hairpin bends to climb requires our efforts. The road is rather quiet and little frequented, which allows us to cycle at our own pace. Those who don't have the heart to pedal can board the support vehicle following the same circuit. We enjoy a panoramic view of Dhuala Dhar (white mountains). Dharamsala appeared on the world map in 1959, with the arrival of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan exile community.

Currently, it is a very popular retreat among foreigners, backpackers and students of Buddhism. We walk through the main streets of the holy city and continue our climb to McLeod Ganj situated at 2000 m altitude. We have plenty of time to explore the region. The village was named after David McLeod, the English lieutenant-governor of Punjab. He founded it in 1848 as a refuge away from the heat of the plains. McLeod Ganj is first and foremost the home of the Gaddis, a hill tribe.

We start the day with an easy descent through Dharamsala, where we follow a network of peaceful roads. The path takes us eastward, just above the valley floor. Passing through tea fields and villages, equipped with basic gear, we make a stop along the way for lunch. After the meal, we get back on our bikes and pedal at our own pace until Andretta where we have booked a room for the night. This ancient village is known for its cultural sites: Norah's Center for Arts, Andretta Pottery and Craft Society, Norah's Mud House and Sir Sobha Singh Art Gallery, etc.

This morning walk offers us a unique travel experience through tea plantations. We contemplate the fields in emerald colors, arranged in orderly rows. In the North, we enjoy the beautiful view of the Himalayan foothills and observe the spectacle of rural Inde. Along the way, we stop at the Baijnath Temple, a monument dating from the 13th century and dedicated to Lord Shiva. We continue our walk on deep roads until Joginder Nagar. Perched at 1220 m altitude, this picturesque place wraps itself in beautiful natural scenery. We spend the night in a guesthouse.

Today's route is quite long, but mostly features descents. Starting from Kangra Valley, we head towards Mandi. We cross a number of hills. The road's level crossings push miners to descend from the main ridge. We follow the path of the Uhl River to the confluence point with the Beas River. We then begin a long descent on a slightly busier section of the walk through the town of Mandi. The comfortable climate, panoramic views of snow-covered mountains and well-developed tourist facilities make Mandi a highly popular destination for tourists. Various religious sites within and around the city of Mandi have made the region sacred to Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists.

Today, we cross the Beas River which marks the outer beaches of the Himalayas. We travel along a comfortable road to the southern end of the Kullu valley. Although the itinerary is undulating, with fascinating landscapes, the difficulty level remains moderate. The lowest slopes are terraced and covered with apple orchards. Beyond the Pandoh dam and hydroelectric installation, we find ourselves above a vast reservoir. Our overnight stop is in a lodge, in the small hamlet of Larji, at 960 m altitude near the point where the Beas River makes a sharp turn towards the west. We check in at the guesthouse in the afternoon and spend the rest of the day exploring the area.

The terrain rises towards the upper Himalayas. The best way to continue our tourist journey is to pass through the foothills, towards the South. It is still a day of climbing. We follow State Highway 11, at the edge of the Tirthan River, a tributary of the Beas. We make regular stops to appreciate the views and to regain our strength. Rarely visited, this wild part of the Indian Himalayas is covered with a forest of pines and oaks. In the village of Banjar, after approximately 10 kilometers of cycling, we walk peacefully down a main street lined with wooden shops to the Murlidhar Pyramid Temple dedicated to Krishna. The last part of the circuit to Shoja(2600 m) is steeper. Nevertheless, the support vehicle is at your disposal if you wish to take a break. Upon arrival, we check in at the guesthouse. Then, we take advantage of the free time to stroll through this charming village and get to know the inhabitants, who, by the way, are not used to seeing many foreign visitors.

This day promises to be sporty with the numerous climbs and zigzagging paths to traverse. We start our getaway with a steady ascent above Shoja. Leaving the pine forest, we find ourselves in a sub-alpine world dominated by stunted birches and tightly cultivated meadows. The road is winding, often affected by freezing or winter thawing. As we approach Jalori Pass (3135m), the steady climb transforms into a rather steep final ascent. From the heights of the site, we enjoy the view over the ridges of the region, in particular the unbroken ridge of snow-capped peaks of the Pir Panjal. The rest of the route is only descent. We must pedal carefully, controlling our speed, especially on the curves. Finally, we reach the Sutlej river and a little further our accommodation at Luhri(800m).

After breakfast at the lodge, we prepare for a long climb in the Sutlej valley. Once again, the support vehicle is made available to those not inclined to make the ascent, for the entire day or en route. For keen hikers, the trail holds plenty of challenges. We trek at our own pace through the heights. We plan a stop every hour to rest. We recharge our energy before resuming the journey. The magnificence of the landscape helps us forget our fatigue and offers us several opportunities to take splendid photographs. Our overnight accommodation is located at Narkhanda (2708 m), on top of the ridge. The place enjoys stunning views of the Pir Panjal and the panoramas to the north of the Ngari province, in Tibet.

The last cycling day includes a high-level route through the foothills of the Himalaya to Shimla. The itinerary is delicate, full of turns and twists. We are led to go around ridges. Covered with mixed forests of pine and oak on the sides, the valley occasionally offers views to the west, notably the Sutlej valley. After several stops, including a lunch break in a village, we cross a small pass at 2450 m altitude before descending to the sprawl of Shimla, another former hill station founded during the British Raj. We have time to explore the surroundings. In the evening, we are free to stroll along the main pedestrian street called "Mall".

Once the British summer capital, Shimla, nicknamed the "Queen of the Hills", is today the capital of Himachal Praddesh. Established on a series of interconnected ridges, the houses stand on the hillsides, forming a riot of colorful roofs. Dating from the nineteenth century, the old town possesses a unique charm. We visit the place in the morning. After lunch, we take the train and cross the narrow gauge railway to Kalka, where the mountains meet the plains of North India. Among the longest train routes in the world, this 100-kilometer line includes more than 100 tunnels.

Today, we are transferred to the station to board the "Toy Train". This train passes through a series of beautiful landscapes and scenery just waiting to be captured with a camera.

From Kalka, we head to our hotel in Pinjore, on the outskirts of Chandigarh.

Early in the morning, we are transferred to Kalka railway station and take a train to Delhi.

Once we arrive at Kalka station, we board the next train heading to Delhi. Upon arrival, a manager receives us and arranges our transfer to the hotel.